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Messages - Sparkie

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1
When you say DRL on the switch in assuming park lights?

So the switch is essentially working in reverse then? Makes me think this could be a damaged switch rather then coding then. Have you searched e90 post to see if similar issues have come up?

Many headlight switches now run on a negative loop with a relay to power lights. In other words the cars lights are powered through a separate circuit. Normally when something in the switch gets fried you lose functionality. Ie in late model Fords the headlights won't turn off when the switch goes. It's very odd that something like this would be reversed but I would have to look into how the switch was wired to help further. You can try picking one up from the dealer and swapping. If it doesn't work you can return the new switch.

With that said see if Daniel will code it back to the original settings as a test. If it fixed it then it's a coding issue. If it doesn't it's likely a switch issue. He's a compitant guy but maybe a value reset or something when it was coded. Either way it's a good test to see.

2
General Discussion / Re: what is reasonable to ask for
« on: April 02, 2014, 11:08:54 PM »
If the part is coming from Germany, sure.

3
General Discussion / Re: what is reasonable to ask for
« on: April 02, 2014, 10:38:01 PM »
It's a rare situation though.

See what you can get, never hurts to ask

4
Yes, but not on all models. I don't know exactly which ones had it but I believe all pre LCI and all halogen LCI vehicles have high beams at half power as DRL's since the halos aren't bright enough. I want to say only 2010 or 2011+ Xenon models have halos as DRLs.

If you have a vehicle that didn't have halos as DRL's (all yellow angels) then coding is needed to adjust the bulb the car uses for DRLs. I'm also assuming you have an E90? Year and exact model would help narrow it down.

EDIT: I see you have an E90 330i. Canadian models would use the high beams at low power this coding would be required to fully mod it.

5
General Discussion / Re: what is reasonable to ask for
« on: April 02, 2014, 10:27:32 PM »
Sure. You bought a vehicle that you can't drive, why not.

6
General Discussion / Re: what is reasonable to ask for
« on: April 02, 2014, 09:23:42 PM »
Well since it's company policy to repair anything with less than 50% life left in the part, and the whole point of buying CPO is that it's been inspected I would ask for a trade to a similar model 335i. The fact it went into limp mode in under 24hrs is kind of ridiculous. Since it's been so long with no fix I would say since they cannot repair it demand a trade, or your money back.

7
Angel eye bulb swap should realistically have nothing to do with the interior lighting.

The fuse should not affect it either.

My guess is a coding mishap, try coding it back to the original settings and see if this fixes the issue. This could also be a failure at the switch and just a coincidence. If your headlights are working though this seems unlikely.

Also what values did you adjust with the coding? You should only need to adjust one line to enable angel eyes as DRLs

8
General Technical / Re: E46 Window Issue
« on: March 30, 2014, 12:18:19 AM »
Oh, like a mechanical failure in the mechanism? That's weird... Did you happen to take it apart by chance?

9
General Discussion / Re: Decal request thread
« on: March 29, 2014, 01:37:31 PM »
I'll definitely take 2 of the white ones  :D


... Racist.

I'll take 4 white please.

10
General Discussion / Re: Decals
« on: March 29, 2014, 01:35:28 PM »
Interested in four!

Want to post in the decal sticky please with the number you want and color? Thanks :D

http://albertabimmers.ca/index.php/topic,62.0.html


Psht, no.

Lol jk <3

11
Wanted / Wanted: 2008-2009 BMW 135i
« on: March 29, 2014, 01:34:26 PM »
Hey all,

I've been saving for a while and will begin looking for an 08-09 135 Msport (Don't think they come in non sport anyway) in late May of this year.

Specs:

Exterior color: White, black, or blue
Interior color: Coral red leather, or black int. for blue body.
Trans: Manual
KMs: Less than 75,000
Engine: Preferred stock
Options: Power seats preferred, nav would be nice. Not picky.
Must be well taken care of, non-smoker vehicle.

I'm keeping a very close eye on Kijiji, but if you guys have any info on some good deals, please post up. If you have one that meets the specs above and are looking to sell, shoot me a message.

12
General Discussion / Re: Decals
« on: March 29, 2014, 01:28:46 PM »
Interested in four!

13
General Technical / Re: E46 Window Issue
« on: March 29, 2014, 01:26:29 PM »
Hey guys, hoping you can help me out here.

My driver window is currently stuck in the down position - It will not roll up. Generally with these cars I would jump straight to the regulator, but I'm not so sure here - As the button for the window control generally has a 2-step up (manual-auto), it no longer does. When driving today, the 'auto' part just seemed to disappear from the button. It feels kind of loose and just is not responsive.

On another note, when I try to go up or down, I do hear what I believe is a relay 'click' under the dash, and that is the only noise. Would you think it could just be the button that is gone? I believe when the regulator is gone you hear the crunching noise, so I think it is just this damn button! Also, if I buy a replacement do I need it coded?


Thanks guys!

It sounds like you got this all figured out thanks to the good doctor, but for future reference...

Window control units (drivers side switch, or central switch) can have the contacts gum up over time. They can corrode or develop build up (dirt, soot, etc) on the electrical contacts. Before purchasing expensive replacements from the dealer it's always worth a shot to physically remove the switching unit, disassemble it, remove all the buttons and physically clean each contact. If this is the cause it should be fairly obvious with the contact patch having black residue on it.

To clean, water and soap will often do the trick. Wet a rag, dab a small amount of hand soap on it and scrub the contacts.

Re-assemble and test. It should be roughly 30-90 min start to finish including removal from the vehicle if you are familiar with disassembling the interior. If you still have the old one it's worth a shot to try and fix it up.

14
DIY mods / Re: Coding Intro & Required Files
« on: March 28, 2014, 08:38:13 AM »
Thanks!

Sent from my Apache using Heli-Hands-Free

15
For Sale / Re: FS: Brand New M3 DCT Paddles perfect for retrofit
« on: March 27, 2014, 12:30:03 AM »
oh, so I will need new steering wheel first I guess :( oh, that gets little out of my price range for now, guess I will wait a little then :) thx for the information

No problem. You can usually find them for a good price on eBay. Either new or taken from wreaked vehicles

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